Learning to surf is exciting, but integrating into a local surf community without sticking out as a novice or, worse, a “kook” (someone who disrespects surf etiquette and endangers others) can be challenging. Here’s a guide on how not to be a kook at your local while learning to surf, ensuring you’re welcomed rather than scorned.
Understanding Surf Etiquette
Respect the Lineup
- Observe Before Entering: Watch how the waves break and where the experienced surfers sit. Don’t paddle out in the middle of a crowded lineup.
- Priority Rules: The surfer closest to the peak of the wave has the right of way. Don’t drop in on someone else’s wave.
- Wait Your Turn: Be patient. Everyone gets their turn, so don’t paddle around someone to catch more waves.
Paddle Correctly
- Don’t Snake: Snaking means paddling around someone to steal their priority. This is a major faux pas.
- Maintain Distance: Paddle out wide of the breaking waves to avoid collisions and interference with surfers riding waves.
Communicate
- Call Your Wave: If you’re going for a wave, a simple “going left” or “going right” lets others know your intentions.
- Apologize: If you make a mistake, a sincere apology can go a long way in earning respect.
Choosing the Right Equipment
Board Size
- Start Big: Bigger boards provide more stability and make it easier to catch waves. A longboard (8-9 feet) is ideal for beginners.
Wetsuit
- Season and Location: Choose a wetsuit that matches the water temperature. A 3/2mm wetsuit is good for mild conditions, while a 5/4mm may be necessary for colder waters.
Local Customs and Culture
Be Humble and Friendly
- Introduce Yourself: A friendly “hello” and a smile can make a big difference.
- Listen and Learn: Pay attention to local advice and respect it.
Environmental Respect
- Leave No Trace: Take your trash with you and respect the natural environment.
- Protect the Waves: Avoid using products that harm the ocean, like certain sunscreens.
Surf Spot Selection
Know Your Limits
- Beginner Spots: Seek out beaches known for being beginner-friendly with softer, smaller waves.
- Avoid Heavy Breaks: Stay away from reefs or heavy shore breaks until you’re more experienced.
Timing
- Off-Peak Hours: Surf early in the morning or later in the afternoon to avoid crowds.
Surfing Technique Basics
Paddling
- Efficient Stroke: Use long, deep strokes and keep your fingers slightly apart for maximum efficiency.
- Body Position: Keep your body centered on the board to avoid tipping.
Popping Up
- Practice on Land: Start by practicing your pop-up on the sand to build muscle memory.
- Swift Movement: Push up with your arms and bring your feet under you in one smooth motion.
Riding the Wave
- Stay Low: A low center of gravity provides better balance.
- Look Where You’re Going: Keep your eyes on where you want to go, not at your feet.
Learning and Improvement
Take Lessons
- Qualified Instructors: Investing in a few lessons from a certified instructor can accelerate your learning and improve your safety.
- Learn Surf Etiquette: Lessons often cover essential surf etiquette, helping you integrate smoothly.
Practice Consistently
- Frequent Sessions: The more you practice, the better you’ll get. Try to surf regularly.
- Video Analysis: If possible, have someone film you. Reviewing footage helps identify areas for improvement.
Fitness
- Stay Fit: Surfing is physically demanding. Engage in activities that boost your stamina, strength, and flexibility.
Avoiding Common Beginner Mistakes
Overestimating Your Skills
- Be Honest: Know your limits and don’t venture into conditions you’re not ready for.
Not Watching the Waves
- Wave Knowledge: Spend time observing wave patterns and behavior before paddling out.
Poor Timing
- Catch the Wave Early: Start paddling early to catch the wave at the right moment. Timing is critical.
Building Community Respect
Volunteering
- Beach Cleanups: Participate in local beach cleanups to show you care about the environment.
- Surf Community Events: Join events and fundraisers to become a familiar and respected face.
Support Local Businesses
- Buy Local: Support local surf shops and eateries. This helps the community and builds goodwill.
Summary
To sum up, blending into a local surf community involves respecting surf etiquette, choosing the right equipment, and engaging with the local culture. Prioritize learning and practicing regularly while being mindful of the environment. By showing respect and a willingness to learn, you’ll avoid being labeled a kook and instead be welcomed as a valued member of the surf community. Happy surfing!
By following this guide on how not to be a kook at your local while learning to surf, you can ensure a smooth integration into the surfing community, enjoy your surfing experience, and gain the respect of fellow surfers.
